Mexico’s Copper Canyon Adventure

 

In October 2010, as the fall winds and rain pummeled our Seattle area home, we headed south to the sun. The goal was Mexico’s Copper Canyon, the Grand Canyon of Mexico. To reach our destination we signed up for a Grand Circle Travel tour that, over a two week period, would sweep south from Tucson Arizona through Casa Grandes and Chihuahua to Divisadero. After a train trip through the Copper Canyon the tour would head for El Fuerte, on the west side of the mountains, before turning north to San Carlos for a few warm days on the Gulf of California. From there it would be back to Tucson and, finally, wrapped in rain gear, home.

     It seemed like a good idea when we signed up for the trip. By departure time our attitude had changed. According to the press, drug violence and unrest was sweeping the border area and the U. S. State Department had a “do not travel” advisory in place for the State of Chihuahua, our first stop. We considered cancelling but didn’t want to forfeit our entire trip fee. Grand Circle assured us the area was safe and that “previous trips had no problems.” That didn’t mean our trip would be so lucky but, with a sense of adventure, we packed up and headed south.
     (We later learned many Mexicans are very frustrated with the news reporting in the U.S. While there are drug related killings it is usually druggy to druggy, isolated to a few small areas and tourists are not involved. But the news has devastated the tourist industry which is very important to the Mexican economy.)

Day One; La Posada Hotel, Tucson
     There is much to do in Tucson if you have a car. It is hard to get to the sights in the sprawling city without one. We rented a car, shopped and visited the Pima Air Museum, an 80 plus acre collection of planes from the 20^th century. Some are nicely restored and inside for viewing. Others are sitting out in the dry sun waiting for love and attention. If want to see about every plane made the last century this is the place.
     We returned to the hotel in time for the 6:00 trip briefing from our leader, Bacho Lopez. Bacho was an experienced Mexican national who had an answer for every question the guests could pose. Most guests (37 guests, guide and driver) were veterans of at least one other Grand Circle trip. We were the rookies. We found it interesting that he addressed one bus trip issue head on; bus etiquette.
     Guests can get territorial about their bus seating. They grab a seat on day one and won’t give it up until the tour ends. Some are ok with that and others find it very annoying. Bacho informed guests that each day they would move back two rows from where they were the day before; no quibbling. The decision went down ok so I assume most guests had faced the issue before and knew it was an equitable solution. It reminded me of a school bus driver dealing with elementary students. Oh well….
     Not yet knowing any of the other guests we climbed in the car and headed for a nearby recommended Italian restaurant, Guiseppe’s Restorante Italiano, for dinner. It was jammed, unusual for a Monday night. We ate at the bar and had a wonderful meal with great atmosphere.
     Returning we set to packing, ready for an 8:00 AM departure.

Day Two: Tucson to Nuevo Casa Grandes
     The tour began, bright and early. Luggage out at 6:30, bus on the road at 8:00. It made sense as we had an eight hour trip ahead of us.
     We headed east on I-10 toward New Mexico where, at Deming, we turned south for the border. After a few rest stops we passed through the little town of Columbus, near the border, whose claim to fame was being raided by Pancho Villa in about 1916. We crossed the border at the Mexican town of Palomas. It was pure Mexico border town with unfinished buildings and a chaotic customs check point. The bus was passed after a dog went over the luggage. We were allowed to drive into town for lunch while our paper work was processed at the nearby immigration office.
     Lunch was at the “Pink Store,” a combination craft shop and restaurant. Our order had been phoned in so the lunch for our big group was handled with wonderful dispatch.
     Rolled into the Nuevo Casa Grande and the Hotel Hacienda about 6:00 with rooms efficiently pre-assigned. The hotel was clean and well run. In the US it would be a 2 to 3 star but here it was very nice and there were no complaints. We were assured the water and ice were ok but we were cautious anyway.

Day three; Wednesday, Nuevo Casa Grande and Mata Ortiz
     Day three was devoted to tours in the local area, the furthest spot being about 20 miles away.
     First a bit of geography. Casa Grande was the big town in the area until the railroad arrived early in the 20^th century. The line bypassed Casa Grande so a new town, Nuevo Casa Grande, grew up several miles to the north on the rail line. Now the new town boasts a population of about 60,000 vs. only about 5000 in the old town.
     Our first stop was a lapidary shop in the older town, Casa Grande. Fearing a standard tourist trap I was skeptical but the owner provided an excellent demonstration of how they made jewelry grade stones from local sources. They make jewelry and sell polished stones to artists all over North American and Europe. It was an impressive, well run operation.  
     Then we were off to a small Mormon community, Juarez, that dates back to the time of Utah statehood. To join the Union Utah had to prohibit polygamy. Mormons that practiced it fled to Mexico and set up new communities. Juarez is a survivor of that exodus. Polygamy is no longer allowed. The town of 1200 is home to a small but beautiful Mormon Temple and the entire town is orderly and clean, reflecting the Mormon influence. About half the current population is Mormon. Most farm, raising apples or peaches. It was quite a lovely little oasis in a green valley. A local provided a tour and history for us.
      Mata Ortez was the next stop. In the 1970’s a local revived a lost pottery making tradition in the small, declining town. Now pottery is made in small shops all over town in a very traditional way. We received an excellent demonstration of the pottery making process. It is interesting that they are able to do most of their work with materials they find in the hills surrounding the town.
     Then lunch in Nuevo Casa Grande, a stop at the cash machine and return to the hotel. We were on our own for dinner and found excellent steak at Pompeii’s, next to the hotel.

Day Four (Thursday) Nuevo Casa Grade to Chihuahua via Paquime
     The day began with a bus ride to Paquime (900 AD to about 1250 AD). The ruins were discovered last century and efforts have been made to excavate and understand the people who lived here. The civilization disappeared before the Spaniards arrived so they can’t be blamed for its demise. After a quick lunch at the hotel we set out on a four hour ride to Chihuahua.
     We arrived at the Sicomoro Hotel about 5:30, settled in and then did a brief walking tour of the area. The hotel is modern and clean. The bathrooms rate four stars. Chihuahua is a big city but very orderly and clean. Traffic moves with good order and, overall, it defeats the stereotypes created by tawdry border towns. There is a modern mall next door and we were about a block from a large grocery store.
     After a welcome drink from the hotel it was dinner on our own. Later one of the bellman surprised us all with a wonderful piano concert in the bar.

Day Five, (Friday) Tour Chihuahua
     We had a lazy 9:00 AM start with a new, local guide. We wandered around the town, visited a park, the “state capital” (we ran into the new governor in the hall) and cathedral. We wrapped up the tour with a visit to the Pancho Villa home and museum. In the U.S. we tend to view him as an outlaw largely because he raided and burned a city in New Mexico in 1916. But here he is a hero of the revolution. I guess it’s a matter of perspective.
     Back at the hotel for lunch on our own. The guests went their separate ways, some siestas, some shopping and a few just sitting around the pool. It was a nice time to do nothing. We swept through a few stores, hiked about a mile to Starbucks and then settled into the room.
     Dinner was at private homes in the Chihuahua. One group went to Bacho’s and others to the home of family and friends nearby. Everyone had a good experience. Some of the hosts spoke more English than others which added to the adventure.

Day Six, (Saturday) Chihuahua to Divisadero on the rim of the Copper Canyon.
     A long day on the bus was broken up by several excellent stops along the way.
     Our route took us on a gentle climb toward the mountains. The gain in elevation brought a change in temperature and the types of farms we passed. The sameness of the desert was soon left behind. Apple, pear and other fruit orchards appeared. Then we wound through rocky country that reminded us of the high desert of eastern Oregon, in the Blue Mountains.
     Late morning we visited Mr. Parker and his family at Village B-2 in a Mennonite colony near the highway. He invited us into a meeting room where he answered questions about the history of the colony and their faith in general. His wife and daughter then opened up their home and were waiting for us with coffee, cookies, local crafts and cheese for sale. Very enterprising!
     The home itself was very Spartan reflecting the teachings of his religion.
     Further down the road we pulled into a gas station and boarded a yellow school bus for a 3 km dirt road ride to a delightful restaurant in an apple orchard. It was like an oasis in the farm country. Bacho had called ahead so tables were preset and hot soup and cider was waiting at each place.
     From there it was into the winding mountains and finally to Divisadero and our hotel which, as advertised, was right on the canyon rim. Bacho warned us that this hotel was more “rustic” than others on the trip but most guests found the place charming and more than adequate.
     For the first time on the trip we were advised not to use the tap water for anything but washing. Bottled water was available in the rooms and a large container of purified water was spotted on each floor near the rooms. The night was cool and some had trouble keeping warm in their chilly rooms but our Seattle blood kept us comfortable.
     All meals were included and served family style in the restaurant. Choices were limited, a minor inconvenience for those on a special diet but we found the meals tasty and interesting.

Day 7, (Sunday) Divisadero and the Tarahumara
     The day dawned sunny but chilly. However, as soon as the sun reached us the chill was driven away. Our coffee maker was kaput so we nobly suffered until the restaurant opened for breakfast. We could now say we were really “roughing it.”

     Most of the group opted for the Tarahumara Village tour. In two vans and a suburban they bounced out of the hotel parking lot at 9:00 on a 45 minute trip to the village that included 7 km of exciting dirt road driving as they descended into canyon to reach the village. The villagers were gracious hosts and, in addition to being able to purchase crafts, guests were able to see how the villagers lived and worked.
     In the afternoon we bussed along the canyon rim, stopping at viewpoints and visiting the new tram that takes visitors across an arm of the canyon for some “up close and personal” views of the canyon. Sadly the newly opened tram was experiencing some electrical problems and was not taking guests.
     That evening we joined two other couples for a sunset party on the canyon rim with wine, crackers and Mennonite cheese.
     Divisadero was a laid back place where life progressed on a routine, 24/7.
Without air conditioning and little traffic the rooms and hotel were very quiet. Morning began with the crow of the roosters giving the place a farm-like feel. We would rise and take a shower with an interesting water system that spurted and spit water before settling down to a steady steam. The sink faucet performed the same little prelude.
     Meanwhile, in front of the hotel the regular native vendors would arrive and spread their baskets, carvings and other wares on the ground, on bulkheads or on crude tables. It was as if each had a pre assigned spot that was respected by the others. Once set up they would sit on a blanket and weave baskets while waiting for customers. For many of the women weaving was like chewing gum. They did it unconsciously. They talked, they named their prices and interacted with each other without breaking from the weaving pattern.
     Across the narrow drive, in the formal market area at the train station, other vendors arrived and set up their stalls. Most of them were Mexican selling crafts they had purchased from others along with standard souvenirs; t-shirts, baseball caps, etc. At the top, beside the train tracks, the food vendors set up their stoves and began food preparation so they were ready when one of the infrequent passenger trains arrived at the station. The food smells were delightful, attracting a regular canine population which hung around the station and the hotel grounds. (We assumed none of the local dogs made it into the tacos!)
At the end of the day, as light faded, the vendors faded as well, leaving few traces of their presence. The native vendors would wrap their wares in bundles and trudge away while the more formal vendors would box up their goods, load them in trucks or SUV’s and disappear. The next day the routine would be repeated.
     The evening would end with an occasional dog fight or just a lonely howling dog sitting somewhere near the hotel.

Day 8 (Monday) Divisadero to El Fuerte via the Copper Canyon

     While waiting for the noon train our guide took us on a short walk in the woods above the hotel. The Taramaras knew we were coming and, even in the woods, there were chances to purchase crafts. That would seem intrusive but they apply no pressure. Instead they sit, weaving their baskets, awaiting your inquiries. We passed several homes cut into the rocks on the canyon wall; very primitive.
     At noon we boarded the Chepe taking our assigned seats in our assigned car. Our train was made up of the engine, dining car, bar car and three passenger carriages. They were very comfortable and the air condition worked well. The first half of the six hour trip was a surprise and slight disappointment. We expected to find tracks carved into the canyon rim with expansive views. Instead the train wound through rolling cattle country; pretty in its own way but not what was expected.
     Later that changed as we began our descent from the high country down a series of narrow and scenic canyons. The track twisted, turned and doubled back on itself through a series of trestles and tunnels—an impressive engineering feat.
     It was nice to move from the passenger car to the bar car from time to time to change the view and take a bit of refreshment.
     Finally, after over six hours of travel, we arrived in a darkened El Fuerte. November 1^st, the night of the dead and the cemetery we passed on the bus was crowded. On that day family members bring food, gifts and picnics to the cemeteries in a show of remembrance for the departed.
     The gaily colored Hotel El Fuerte was a delight after a long day of travel. Our room opened onto an exterior corridor as did the others. After dropping luggage in the room we gathered for a welcome drink and dinner.

Day 9 (Tuesday) El Fuerte and the Mayo Village
     After breakfast it was back on the bus and off to the Mayo Village, Teheuco.
     First stop was the village cemetery, which was still recovering from the previous nights festivities. The cemetery was covered with flowers, gifts and candles for the dead. Bacho was embarrassed by the amount of trash the visitors had left behind. But the rest of the village and all of the homes, was very tidy so it was clear the cemetery mess was an anomaly.
     The old and nearby church was visited and then we walked to our first home visit; a family making corn tortillas. They demonstrated how they made them from the corn to the frying pan. Served with beans and onions they were very good.
     We moved a few doors down to a mask makers home. There is a certain mask design, native to this area. We would see more of the masks at a later native dance demonstration.
     The homes are simple, clean adobe structures. Low trees provide shade to the homes and yards. They have an inside kitchen, for winter cooking, and an outside area, under cover, for warm weather cooking. They live much like they have lived for centuries. Electricity and an occasional TV are the only apparent concessions to modern times. The residents, themselves, dress and look like any other Mexican nationals; no “native” dress for this tribe.
     Next stop was the village school. Grand Circle travel has a foundation that provides support for projects in communities they visit. In this area, the school is the beneficiary.
     Though the school and most shops were closed to commemorate the day of the dead teachers and many students were on hand to greet us at the school. Each guest was matched with a child/guide. Kathy was matched with Thomas, a first grader well turned out in a crisp red and white checked shirt. We toured the banos, paid for and constructed by Grand Circle. Then on to the classroom which grew quite stuffy with 40 adults and 20 ninos scrunched inside. The students sang, the visitors sang, school supplies were presented and then we moved to the covered outside play area for a student dance demonstration.
     We bid farewell to the kids and moved to the front of the school for a native dance demonstration. New dance forms and instruments were on display.
     We felt very welcome in the village and the adults and kids seemed to enjoy showing us around.
     We returned to El Fuerte for lunch. Most ate at the hotel while eight of us opted for a recommended restaurante, El Meson Del General, across the main plaza; very good.
The hotel provided us with local dancers for happy hour—very energetic and colorful.


Day 10 (Wednesday) On to San Carlos
     Off to a 9:00 am start for San Carlos. Had a little confusion on the bus seating as some of the “kids” were unable to get the seats they wanted. But all was worked out and a strained peace reigned.
     The trip north, on highway 15, the main road along the west coast to the Arizona border, was uneventful. At noon we stopped for lunch in Navojoa at the home of a family that runs a hotel in El Fuetre and a restaurant in San Carlos. It was a spacious old place that is only available for special events and Grand Circle tours.
     Then in Obregon we had our first taste of Americana; a Walmart. We swarmed the place purchasing tea, wine, snacks and souvenirs before reboarding the bus. The air was dry and hot all day, in sharp contrast to our time in the mountains. While ok in the shade it was scalding in the sun.
     Arrived in San Carlos at sundown and settled into the rooms before a dinner at the hotel.
     San Carlos is a pleasant little town, much like I suspect Cabo San Lucas was before it exploded with tourism. This area has a delightful marina which is relatively quiet this time of year. Noted for spring and summer fishing efforts have been made to boost tourism and there are many half empty subdivisions in the area. Our hotel, the Marinaterra, sits in a complex at the boat harbor. It is some distance from the restaurant strip and most of the shops which can be reached by cab or bus (or walk if you don’t mind dusty streets.) A large pool with smaller kiddy pools and a cold hot tub are located on a deck below our room. A separate pool and beach complex is available for guests about 200 yards to the west so we had choice of two pools and a beach to select from
San Carlos was a relaxing way to end the trip.

A Word About Stone and Tile in Mexico: In a country short of wood, stone and tile predominates as a building material and even the simple red bricks create beautiful designs. In our San Carlos hotel, for example, the floors were surfaced with a marble looking stone tile. The outside deck was a simple square red brick tile and the deck railing was topped with a large glazed ceramic tile of some sort. Similar beauty and variety was present in all the hotels on the trip.

The old and eclectic Hotel El Fuerte was perhaps the most beautiful with its bright colored ceramic tiles on walls and floors.

Travelers in Mexico should keep their eyes open to the variety and beauty of the stone like materials that have been a mainstay in Mexican construction for centuries with impressive results.

Day 11 (Thursday) San Carlos
     Our room faces a nearby twin peak that stands as a regional landmark. The Spanish name, inspired by the shape, means upside down goat udder. At night the sun goes down behind it leaving an orange sky in its wake. In the morning the new sun paints the peaks with a golden brush. The peaks are stunning whether the sun is coming or going.
     Today we are going on our last “included” tours. We have chosen to pass on the sunset cruise, nature cruise and desert ride and get as much pool time as possible.
First stop was a cactus field where Bacho did an excellent job explaining the role of the cactus in the desert environment while showing the various types that are found here. Then it was on to Institute of Monterrey’s pearl farm. We were skeptical about that one but it was very interesting. The owner showed how they “farmed” oysters to achieve consistent results in a relatively short time. By raising oysters in the farm they avoid depleting the natural stocks. .
     The first two stops took us to well into the afternoon so I would have been happy to skip the tour of Guaymas but, since it was in the brochure, we did the drive tour and stopped briefly at the waterfront where we learned that Holland America has added this port to some of its cruises. Since the town has not been spoiled by too much cruise traffic it might be a nice stop but, in the heat, we were ready to move on.
     Bacho dropped some of us at the other end of San Carlos so we could lunch at Charlie’s Rock, a waterfront restaurant with open air seating on the upper deck. The view and food was wonderful—fish and shrimp—but the flies (non biting) were an annoyance. The bus returned to fetch us back to the hotel where we could finally head for the pool at about 3:00.
     The poor sunset cruise people barely had time to sit before they had to mount up and head to the marina.

Day 12 (Friday) San Carlos
     Today was the day to relax; no tours, no schedule, no nothing until dinner. The only challenge was deciding which pool to visit and then, once there, which lounge to settle into. We headed to the “beach pool”, riding on the hotel golf cart. After wandering on the beach and sunning by the pool we moved back to the hotel.
     Before settling in at the pool I walked along the edge of the marina in an effort to reach the opening where the bay met the Gulf of California. It was a nice walk but the beach ran out before I reached the Gulf. It was then back to the hotel pool for the rest of the afternoon.
     Dinner was at the Cotton Club, a wonderful discovery at the end of a dirt road near the former Club Med. It is hard to imagine how a fine restaurant can survive in such an isolated location but I hope it does. The beach front location and facility were wonderful.

Day 13 (Saturday) San Carlos to Tucson
     Homeward bound we were on the bus at 7:30 on the way to the U. S. of A. Mid morning we took a potty/craft break at the home of an ironwood carver. It was an interesting demonstration of the carving art and resulted in the addition of several objects d’art being added to our collection.
     Some distance south of the border we passed through a Mexican check point where we removed all the luggage from the bus and passed it through a screening. I’m not sure what they thought we might be trying to take out of Mexico but those were questions one doesn’t ask of a person with a machine gun. A few miles further on we passed through a second screening. This time we only stopped while the guards walked through the bus.
     The big inspection loomed ahead; the U. S. border. With some foreboding Bacho indicated border waits from one to seven hours had been experienced on past trips. We were fortunate, slipping through in 90 minutes with a bit of adventure tossed in.
     As expected the bus was diverted into an inspection area and all the luggage was removed and scanned. While this was going on we were able to watch the dismantling of a Jeep Cherokee in the next bay. Apparently the drug dog had detected the scent of marijuana. That info plus whatever other data they gleaned from their electronic detectors led them to the gas tank which they were in the process of removing when we arrived. While we watched they removed the tank and then proceeded to lift about 140 pounds of marijuana in plastic wrapped brick sized blocks from the gas tank.
     We were advised the driver was in government provided bracelets and the Jeep now the property of the U. S. Government. It will soon be available for purchase at auction in Tucson.
The drug dog handler, a friendly young man, handed one of our travel mates a marijuana laced purse to demonstrate the dog’s olfactory ability. The handsome black lab paced through the group before sitting beside the purse carrier, its trained response when it finds drugs. A very interesting demonstration.
     Mexico had been most interesting and fun but it was nice to feel the U.S.A. under our feet. By 6:00 P.M. we were rolling into the La Posada Hotel in Tucson and the tour was winding down. Bacho and Grand Circle had done an excellent job. The trip lived up to its expectations. it seemed like we had just departed it was nice to be almost home.

     We had traversed the Copper Canyon, learned a great deal about Mexican history and culture and made new friends. Now we could remove one more item from our bucket list.

Showers of Mexico; An Aqua Adventure

We recently completed a two week trip to Mexico with the Copper Canyon as our ultimate destination. Nowhere on the trip was there more variety encountered than in the hotel showers adding a sense of adventure to what should have been routine bathing experiences.

In Tucson mineral deposits on the head sent about 20% of the water jets off in random directions. Rogue streams might drill your eye, hit your hair and zip by your ear while you tried to stay in the main stream.

In Nuevo Casa Grande the stream was fine but only one temperature was available—HOT. We twisted and turned both knobs to no avail. The temperature never varied. It was on the edge of human tolerance forcing us into a lather and quick rinse cycle. We came out of the shower feeling like well done Maine lobsters.

Chihuahua was perfecto—no complaints. Any temperature you wanted directed where you wanted.

Divisadero, a rustic place in the mountains, offered a rustic and entertaining shower. The water was wonderful, warm and undrinkable when it arrived but its arrival was preceded by irregular bursts of air and banging of pipes; most charming.

El Fuerte was nearly perfecto. A three inch round head, like the spout of an old watering pail, dispensed a satisfactory flow; not hard but steady and sufficient.

San Carlos, in one of the most modern hotels of the trip, provided what we believed to be a water conserving shower head. Rather than a spray it delivered a high pressure fog-like mist that enveloped the bather. No amount of adjustment could alter the fog pattern. The shower head would have been excellent for fire suppression and provided a decent shower as long as you didn’t mind a London fog-like experience and getting your hair wet each time.

Returning to the original Tucson hotel, assigned to a different room, we encountered a more random shower than during our first stay.. Trying to adjust the head and eliminate some of the random spray only introduced new water jets where none had before appeared.

Travel can be an adventure and, in this case, the random shower designs only added to the stories we had to share at the end of the trip. Hot or cold, mist or jets we were glad to have a chance to freshen up at the end of a day on the road. And we appreciate the home shower even more!

Creatures of the Bus; A Grand Circle Tour of Mexico

During a recent tour of Mexico I was fortunate to add seven observations to my creature life list and I was able to accomplish the task from the comfort of a seat on a luxury tour bus without the need for binoculars. Here, in no particular order, are the creatures spotted.

1. Seatgrabber: The Seatgrabber can be spotted boarding the bus early and claiming their preferred and prized seat before others have an opportunity to board. Once a seat is claimed it is, in their mind, owned for the duration of the trip.

On this trip the Seatgrabbers were neutralized by a seat assignment policy imposed by the guide. The guide assigned all the seats and changed the assignment each day so the guests could experience views from different parts of the bus. While effective, this process caused some level of discomfort for the perennial Seatgrabbers which was interesting/fun to observe.

2. Seatclaimers: Closely related to the Seatgrabber, the Seatclaimer employs similar techniques to achieve their goal; board early and stake a claim. But the Seatclaimers can also use their skills to claim seats for friends who are not on board. A Seatclaimer will swoop onto the bus and, much like a wolf marking its territory, will drop books, coats, purses or other personal effects onto a seat thereby claiming it for themselves or their friend.

Foiled by the seat assignment policy on this trip, the Seatclaimers focused their efforts on “off bus” seating; in restaurants, at craft demonstrations, on trains, etc. In those venues they were still effective, though sometimes they had difficulty exiting the bus quickly enough to “mark” the best seats.

3. Firston/Firstoffer: The Firston/Firstoffer is closely related to the Seatgrabber. They have a genetic disposition to be the first to board the bus, exit the bus, reach the lobby, reach the baño, reach the tea supply in the market, etc. It matters not if the seats are preassigned. You can slow them down by placing obstructions in their paths—canes, luggage, block the aisle—but they will usually prevail and it is often better to clear their path to avoid personal injury.

4. Aisleblocker: The Aisleblocker is not unique to the bus tour industry; they are most visible on planes during boarding and exiting. But they employ the same traits in both travel environments. Once they reach their assigned seats they linger in the aisle while they stow their luggage, remove their wraps, direct their travel companion and a range of other activities, many of which could be conducted after they take their seat.

Short of being rude, there is no defense. After years of observation I’ve concluded that Aisleblockers cannot be cured short of a new 12 step program focused on that affliction. If you encounter an Aisleblocker just relax. They will sit down eventually.

5. Rovers: The Rover is most prevalent in environments where the seats are preassigned. As soon as roll is taken and the bus is in motion they will begin to rove, seeking a better seat assignment. Some may simply ask a fellow traveler to swap seats. But more often they will prey on the single traveler and grab the vacant seat beside them.

If the Rover is a pleasant person, this can be beneficial to both parties. The Rover finds a seat they prefer and the single traveler has a companion for the day.

However, if the single traveler is seeking privacy and/or would rather not sit with the Rover, awkward situations can occur. There are several defenses a single traveler can employ to resist a Rover onslaught.

• Place knitting, books, bags, etc on the vacant seat.

• Sit in the aisle seat, making access more difficult.

• Don’t bath and/or wear excessive amounts of perfume/after shave.

• Cough and sneeze or otherwise feign illness.

6. Questionasker: Also known as the Nonlistener, the Questionasker exhibits an inability to hear instructions from a guide. This creature can best be explained by example.

Guide: “When we leave the bus the restrooms will be in the red building on the left. Everyone should be back on the bus by 9:30.”

Questionasker #1: “Are there restrooms?”

Guide: “In the red building on the left.”

Questionasker #2: “What time are we leaving?”

Guide: “9:30.”

From years of observation I’ve concluded that this species will survive mankind.

7. Overtalker: The Overtalker can be found anywhere in the bus. They insist on talking when announcements are being made so they, and those around them, cannot hear the instructions. Overtalkers are often also Questionaskers. Those around them, who might be good listeners, are often mistaken for Questionaskers because, despite their best efforts, they were simply unable to hear the instructions due to the background noise generated by the Overtalker.

Bus trips can be long and tiring. But having the opportunity to spot and observe new bus creatures can help pass the time and enhance the quality of the entire experience. I look forward to future trips where I might be able to add to this list and enrich my soul.

The Iron Goat Trail; A Stevens Pass Hike

Steve and Cameron

Summer, 2010

 What an incredible combination; a warm summer day, an energetic, inquisitive grandson and a mountain destination steeped in history. In 2009 grandson Cameron first heard the story of the 1910 Wellington disaster, a winter snow slide that crushed a passenger train near Stevens Pass, taking nearly one hundred lives. The most dangerous section of rail line was later abandoned and in 2000 reopened as the Iron Goat Trail. Cameron was determined to hike that trail.

A Word About the Wellington Disaster: In March of 1919 a heavy winter storm trapped a west bound passenger train in the small rail town of Wellington, just west of the current Stevens Pass summit. The train was stranded for over a week as crews vainly tried to clear the snow from the line. Snow slides were not unknown in the area and some sections of track were protected by snow sheds which, effectively, put a roof over the tracks. Even without such protection Wellington was considered “safe.”

A combination of snow and temperature conditions combined to bring down a colossal slide the night of March 1st. The idle train was swept from the tracks and crushed on the slope below. With tracks still blocked rescue crews had to climb a steep slope at Windy Point and hike three miles on the still dangerous and snow covered track to reach to accident site. News of the Wellington disaster swept the country.

The rail company later changed the name of Wellington to “Tyee” so the name would not appear on future timetables. But the new name didn’t “stick” and the name “Wellington” survives to this day. More and stronger concrete snowsheds were constructed to protect the route. In 1929 a new longer tunnel was constructed at a lower elevation and this stretch of rail was abandoned.

For further reading on the disaster read “America’s Worst Train Disaster” by Don Moody. Info on the history and the trail is available at an Iron Goat website.

The entire trail is about nine miles long. However, with its winding route, shorter segments offer variety for those with limited time or energy. Mile markers on the trail indicate the distance from the Great Northern Railroad headquarters in Minnesota. The east end of the trail is mile 1711 and the west is 1720.

A permit is required to park at any of the three trailheads and can be obtained at the Forest Service office one mile east of Skykomish on Highway 2. When we saw how well the parking, restrooms, interpretive signs and trail was maintained we didn’t mind supporting the permit system.

Cameron selected the east, or Wellington end, as our starting point. It was reached by turning north, off of highway 2, at highway milepost 64.3 just short of the Stevens Pass summit. Eastbound the left turn can be dangerous so we proceeded on to the summit, turned around and headed back west, making a right turn. After about three miles on the semi paved road a right turn onto a gravel road took us to the trailhead. Four wheel drive is not required.

First we headed east, about 200 yards, to the mouth of the first Cascade Tunnel, completed in 1900. For safety reasons hikers are not allowed in the tunnel and a washout had destroyed the final portion of the trail to the mouth, but we could see the tunnel and make it our official starting point.

Returning to the parking area we began the main trail down the mountain. Huge concrete snowsheds, constructed after 1910, frame portions of the trail. Trail makers identify the features of the old town of Wellington though no buildings and few relics remain. An occasional rusty pully or concrete foundation are all that remain. One trail lookout jutted over the slope where the tragic slide took place. It looked very benign on a warm summer day.

We could have walked about three miles to Windy Point but, instead, covered about 1.5 miles before returning to the parking area. We used the available picnic tables for lunch and then drove back to the highway and to back down to highway milepost 58.3 and the location of the Iron Goat Trail Interpretive Site, the westerly trailhead head. There we faced two choices. First we could follow the old rail line 3 miles west to the Martin Creek trailhead where a switchback turned the line east again for another 3 miles to Windy Point; six miles total. Second, we could follow the path of the rescue workings and head straight up the slope to intersect the line at Windy Point. The trail climbs 700 vertical feet in one mile.

Never one to shirk a challenge Cameron chose the climb and grandpa, panting, followed behind. Arriving at Windy point we headed east toward Wellington for a short time and then turned, returned to Windy point and began the six mile trail back to the start, via the Martin Creek trailhead. But, it was too late in the day for us to begin a six mile hike so we aborted and turned around. The trail, with its tunnels and history looked very interesting and well worth a return trip.

Back at Windy Point we took the shortcut back down to the car finding (surprise, surprise) that going down is much easier than going up!

Reflection on the Iron Goat Trail: This is a wonderful trail for hikers of all skill levels. Since it is an old rail line none of the grades are steep, the shortcut up to Windy Point being the exception. Because there are several trail access points segments of the trail can be covered. With two or more cars shuttling drivers back and forth a one way hike could be arranged. One family left a car at the interpretive site and then started their hike in Wellington. Wellington to Windy point, 3 miles, plus the mile down the short cut gave them a nice one way four mile trip. The scenery is magnificent, the history is refreshed with well executed trail side signs.

So find yourself an enthusiastic grandchild and take a hike.

Salmon River of No Return: An Idaho Raft Trip

Salmon River Rafting
July 2010

July of 2010 found us in Salmon, Idaho, ready to begin a five day, four night raft trip on the Main Salmon River. While the Lewis and Clark expedition found this section of the river impassable our guide service, Action Whitewater Adventures, was equipped to handle all the river could offer.

After a night in Salmon, on Monday morning we boarded a school bus for the two hour drive to our put-in spot at Corn Creek, a short distance down river from the junction of the Middle Fork and the Main Salmon River.

A word about Lewis and Clark: The Salmon River, which connects to the Snake and Columbia Rivers, would have been an ideal route for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. But much of the river is in narrow, steep walled canyons that are unsuitable for travel by horse. The river itself, with its many rapids, would have destroyed any boats the expedition might have acquired. So a long detour was required that added many weels to their trip to the mouth of the Columbia River. Modern rafts and jet boats can pass up and down the river with ease most times of the year. Lewis and Clark would have envied today’s travelers. For those wishing to learn more about the history of the Salmon read “River of No Return” by Johnny Carrey and Cort Conley.

The launch point was busy with groups launching and others taking out after rafting the Middle Fork. But a cadre of our guides had spent the night at the launch putting the rafts together and getting them packed for a smooth and rapid departure. For river travel the guests were offered three choices:

1. Two, two person inflatable kayaks: This was the wettest and riskiest choice but also the most fun.

2. Two, six passenger paddle boats: Six guests, three per side, paddle these mid-sized rafts with a guide or two in the stern to steer and offer directions. The guests are expected to participate and can expect to get wet.

3. Three large inflatable rafts: These are the big cargo carriers in the group. A single guide, wielding large oars, controls the direction and speed of the raft. The guests are passengers. Four guests could comfortably fit in the bow area with two more perched in the stern atop the well stowed gear.

These large rafts carry an amazing amount of equipment and supplies. Tents, cooking gear, lawn chairs, personal gear for everyone and all the food finds a place on these well designed rafts. And everything needs to be secured in some way on the off chance that the river throws up a surprise and tosses the raft around.

The guests were free to switch from one type of boat to another depending on their mood and availability of space. During the course of the trip everyone seemed to enjoy as much adventure as they were seeking.

Working together at Corn Creek the guests quickly passed the personal gear down to the river where the guides could stow it and we could be on our way.

A word about the group: The guests came from all over the country. Several had done the river before but, since they enjoyed it so much, they had returned. The guest list included:
• Steve and Kathy from Washington State.
• Pam and her four kids (ages 11 to 17) from Arizona.
• Molly and son Cooper from New York.
• Kathy and Doug from Florida.
• Bob and Leslie from South Carolina.
• Laren and Michael from Washington State.
• Mike and Tanya from Ohio
• Joanne and Kyle from Nevada
• Dolly and daughter Sara from Texas.
Five guides and two trainees managed the needs of the guests. Ryan, Michelle, Zack, Vance and Allison were the veterans while Asia and Dustin were learning the ropes.

The first day we were introduced to some of the rivers rapids and developed a pattern that would continue most of the trip. Much of the river is a drift, interrupted by rapids that can get the adrenalin flowing. Late afternoon we arrived at a camp near Devils Teeth Rapid. After a quick tour of the site we formed a line to pass gear from the rafts up onto the beach. Then, while the guests were busy setting up their tents for the first time, the guides set up an elaborate kitchen and began work on dinner.

After a steak dinner Polly and Laren gave an informal talk on the Lewis and Clark expedition.

Day two was surprisingly cool, despite the bright sun. A wet ride and steady head wind contributed to the chill. I started out in the second seat of a paddle boat, behind Pam’s young daughter Laurel. Laurel endured a series of wet rapids before wisely moving to a dryer rear seat and I moved up to the front. The guides like weight and muscle in the front seats. I met the weight standard!

At noon we arrived at Barth Hot Springs, a short hike above the river. Since most were cold from the morning paddle we eagerly climbed up and settled into the man made tub in the rocks above the river.

A series of rapids followed the hot springs and one, Bailey, claimed the other paddle boat dumping four of the six passengers into the river. Since everyone wore a lift jacket at all times the swimmers were cold but unharmed. They would not be the last to take an unintended swim in the Salmon!
Bailey Creek was the site of the Tuesday camp.

Since Monday night had been very comfortable several of us and all the guides slept outside under clear and star studded skies. It was cold; 45 degrees in the morning.

A word about campsites: With so many guides and private parties on the river an allocation system is in place to meter boats onto the river and allocate camping space. Before we launched at Corn Creek the river guides held a drawing for preferred campsites. Most of the large, group sites, are allocated in this manner. But there were some nights when we had no assigned camp site so had to move along until we found a suitable spot.

Wednesday we moved to one of the big rafts with Allison at the helm. Stopped at the site of the Campbell and Jim Moore ranches. On opposite sides of the river, they are connected by a suspension bridge which replaced a ferry some years ago. The river is rich with tales of early settlers who braved this wild country and lived there year around. Now with jet boats and an occasional air strip the ranches are not so isolated.

The trip pace, from sun up to sun down, was proving to be steady but never rushed. Each day was relaxing in its own way.

Made a beer and ice cream stop at the most civilized place we had seen to date, Buckskin Bills. After a brief break we were back on the river. Due to the luck of the campground draw Wednesday turned out to be a long day; we arrived at camp after 6:30 P.M.

A word about Jet Boats: I assumed the rafters and jet boaters would be from two different and conflicting worlds. I was wrong. The two modes of travel have a healthy respect for one another. I was told that our 90 mile drift five day trip can be made in a few hours by the jet boats. Rafters coast quietly down the river while the jet boats power up and down the river at a good speed. The jet boats help the rafters in emergencies and are very important as suppliers for the riverside residents. Some raft guests take a jet boat up to Corn Creek and then return by raft. The jet boat allows people who wouldn’t have the ability or desire to float the river a chance to see its natural beauty.

Thursday was a short day since we had traveled so far on Wednesday. We arrived at the Sheep Creek camp at lunch time and had a lazy afternoon by the river. Trails led back from the river for the hikers in the group. The air was 92 degrees and the river 62 so most of the group made it into the water at some time during the afternoon. The six young people in the group had a particularly good time.

Friday we broke camp and, by noon, were at the Riggin Hot Springs take out. A bus was waiting to take us on a two hour ride to McCall where most of us would spend the night.

Reflecting
Often, when I’m on a trip, the days pass too fast to reflect on the experience. Photos, my journal and questions from friends help me to walk backward in time to consider what we experienced.

Action Whitewater Adventures did a wonderful job putting the trip together. Food, equipment and commentary were all first rate. Good guides can make or break a group vacation and ours were knowledgeable, patient and customer focused.

The rivers rich history came as a surprise. I had heard about the Lewis and Clark visit to the area. But, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the river attracted a variety of other characters and adventures. Some were after gold. Some wanted solitude. Some were settlers. Access in 1900 was little better than access when Lewis and Clark passed by. One of the earliest and most successful means of transport were large flat bottom, square sided scows. Controlled by sweep oars fore and aft they survived the rapids most of the time and, when they arrived at their destination the scows were dismantled and the wood used for building. The next year a new scow would make the trip.

For most rafters the rapids are the highlight of an otherwise benign float trip. The rapids should be respected but not feared. Guests were barely splashed in the big boats. The churning, unpredictable rapids are more of a challenge for the paddle boats and little kayaks sending adrenalin coursing through the paddlers veins and, if they ended up in the river, a chill up their spines.

The trip, from launch to take out, offered a buffet for the senses. The scenery is ever changing. Tree covered slopes give way to narrow rock passages followed by rolling grassy pastures leaning against the base of the mountains. Even the fire blackened hills offer testimony to the untamed nature of the river.

The warm clean air stands in sharp contrast to the clear cold waters of the river. The steady sound of the river is constant even far from the rapids.

This trip is a “must do” for anyone with a love of the out of doors, western history and adventure.

How do you get there: We drove to Salmon and used a shuttle service that, for a fee, drives your car to your McCall hotel and leaves it in the lot waiting for you. That worked great. An air taxi service is also available to fly you from McCall back to Salmon if you prefer. Most of the guests flew into Boise and were transferred to Salmon via air taxi. After the trip a bus took them back to Boise where they could pick up their flights. Action Whitewater Adventures can assist the guests no matter what option they prefer.