The Adventure Ends

Can travel to three advanced countries, Russia, Estonia and Finland really be called an adventure? We certainly weren’t “roughing it” unless you count three days on a Russian river without internet access. But, in my view, any trip that involves air travel is an adventure. Security hassles, delayed planes and lost luggage all loom as travel hazards. A tip of the hat goes to Delta Airlines. Our flights were good, schedules worked, staff smiled and luggage arrived. Life was good.

Grand Circle Travel, their ship and staff did an excellent job. The itinerary was full but not packed and the guides and literature gave us an excellent taste of history and culture of all three countries. It was alarming how little I knew about the history of that part of the world. I still have much to learn but have sufficient foundation to bore friends with trip stories for months to come. (Anyone interested in viewing our 1700 photos should just drop us a note! A viewing can be arranged.)

Would I recommend the trip, Delta and Grand Circle? Absolutely, it was an “adventure” we will long remember.

Helsinki Adventure Ride on the M/S J. L. Runeberg

The Estonia-Finland trip extension officially ended Tuesday evening with guests departing for the airport early Wednesday morning. We booked an extra day so we could see a bit more of the country, outside of Helsinki.

Our Monday guide suggested a trip to the historic coastal town of Porvoo, 30 miles east of Helsinki. The plan was to take a classic boat, the J. L. Runeberg, out to Porvoo and a bus back. We could see the beautiful island studded coast from the boat and the Finnish countryside from the bus. It seemed like a good idea but didn’t quite turn out as planned.

The morning wind and rain did not deter us. The Runeberg brochure indicated the boat had four salons or cabin areas. Rain? No problem.

We purchased our tickets and boarded a very busy boat. As we explored the boat, looking for a protected seat, we discovered a new Finnish word on little gold cards in every salon.—RESERVED! It seemed all the inside salons were reserved for tour groups. I later discovered the boat can carry 200 passengers but has room for only 78 in its “salons.”

I suspect the boat, launched the same year as the Titanic, might have been designed by the same guy. In the Titanic case lifeboats were provided for only some of the passengers. In our case, inside space was provided for only some of the passengers.

Had we fully understood the situation before casting off, we might have canceled. But, once at sea, we were out of options. It was interesting how quickly the salon dwellers protected their spaces from intruders. We could have been dripping wet and frozen and I don’t believe we would have been granted entry.

On a warm sunny day it would have been no problem. There was storm swept seating on the bow and on a sundeck, topsides. Covered seating was available on the port and starboard sides, against the cabin. But the wind was so aggressive those seats were wet as well. Some of the other “salonless” passengers huddled on stools or the floor in the narrow passageway to the coffer bar, below deck by the engine room. Of course they couldn’t see anything but at least they were dry.

We and a family of four finally made the best of a bad situation and claimed two benches along the centerline on the back deck. The wind still whistled through but most of the rain couldn’t quite reach us. We appropriated some blankets from down below and, wrapped like mummies, were able to ward off hypothermia during the three hour ride.

So, how did we feel about the trip? It was a great way to see a beautiful coast that is laced with hundreds of small islands. But frankly we felt cheated. It was like buying a bus ticket and being put on the roof. The frustrating thing was that we had many more layers of clothing sitting in our hotel room but had no reason to believe we would need them.

As for Porvoo, it was a charming place with a wonderful “old town.” I would recommend it, rain or shine. And the bus back did give us a taste of the country. As for the boat ride, caveat emptor.

Exit Estonia; Ferry to Finland

Last stop on our travels was Helsinki, Finland. We rose at a respectable time and headed the short distance to our 10:00 a.m. Tallinn-Helsinki ferry. The Baltic Sea ferries are nothing like the smaller scale Washington State Ferries of home. These are made for the open sea. Our ferry, the Tallink “Star” was not the biggest we saw but was still impressive with seven decks and space for 2000 passengers and 450 cars. At 24 knots it made the crossing in just two hours.

We noticed many Finns returning from a weekend in Estonia ladened with liquor. We were told prices are so high in Finland that it pays to make the trip just to stock your liquor cabinet. (Later, in Helsinki we paid 19 Euro for a beer and a glass of wine!)

After settling into the Scandic Grand Marina Hotel, right on the waterfront, we boarded a bus for a quick orientation of the city of Helsinki and Finland, in general.

The official languages are Finnish and Swedish though most speak good English. Our guide claims the Finns are quiet and reserved.

• A Finnish bride will hear “I love you” just once. After that the husband will let her know only if there is a change of status.

• Finns can be silent in at least two languages.

O.K. Maybe you had to be there to appreciate the story.

About 10% of the five million Finns live in Helsinki. Commercially they are perhaps best known as the home of Nokia and Angry Birds.

Sweden ruled Finland for nearly 400 years. Russia kicked them out in 1809 and loosely controlled the country for the next 100 years. When the 1917 Russian revolution came about the Finns negotiated their freedom from the new government. Later, in 1939, Stalin decided to get Finland back and invaded. The Finns stopped them cold but, after four months with no international support, had to accept a cease fire and give up some territory. A year later, when Germany invaded Russia, the Finns joined in to get their lost territory back. When World War II ended they had to again give up territory to the Russians but kept their independence which they enjoy today.

Armed with a tram pass we spent the next day walking and riding in the Finnish sunshine. It is a most enjoyable city and the hotel was close to the outdoor market, good shopping and good wandering space. The pass was also good for a water taxi to Suomenlinna Sveaborg, a two hundred year old fortress guarding the entrance to Helsenki harbor. A World Heritage Site the fort offers visitors a view of history and of Helsinki in the distance. It was worth the trip.

Our stay in Finland was short but most enjoyable and educational.

Lights Out In Tallinn

Our Hotel Euroopa, in Tallinn, was four star in every respect. But when the local power tranformer burned up the hotel grew dark and quiet.

One evening the lights went out with a clunk. When we began to smell smoke I decided to investigate and discovered a smoking transformer and firemen on the other side of the hotel. By morning a large generator was supplying power and crews were busy replacing the equipment. By sundown, after a great deal of hard work, things were back to normal at the Hotel Euroopa.

But it was exciting while it lasted!

 

From Collective Farm to Real Dairy Business

Grand Circle Travel likes its guests to meet real people in the countries they visit. With that in mind, Sunday we visited the dairy farm of "Villo" for lunch and a tour. Villo's story was most interesting.

Public records of the farm date back to the 19th century. Then it consisted of 2 acres of farmed land, 15 acres of forest and two horses. (He points out that he now has 350 horses powering his Massey Ferguson tractor.)

In 1940, when the Russians made Estonia a part of the USSR, the farm had grown to 200 acres, 7 cows and 2 horses. All were "nationalized." The family was assigned 1.5 acres of land where they could raise vegetables, apples, pigs, sheep and keep 2 cows.

In the late 1980's rules were relaxed and they were allowed to sell a portion of their produce directly to consumers. With this money they could afford vodka with which to bribe the collective farm tractor operator to work their field. What a great system!

Villo attended an agricultural academy and received a mechanical engineering degree in 1981. In 1989 he began running the farm. When Estonia gained independence, in 1991, he was able to begin running a real and most efficient farm.

Property was returned to those it was "stolen" from in 1940; he got his 200 acres back. He now owns 500 acres and leases another 700 where he grows crops for silage and hay to sell to another business. He employs five people, runs 170 head of cattle (half dairy and half beef) and produces 300 tons of milk annually which he sells as milk, yogurt and cheese.

He is the only family member working on the farm. His wife is a dentist, daughter a caterer and son a banker.

I tell this story because I find the Soviet and post Soviet story so striking. Living in the U. S. A. we really didn't fully appreciate the stifling effects of Communism on a people that had no choice. They have a choice now and are thriving.

The farm visit reminded me of an old political joke that distinquished the differences between various 'isms....

Socialism: You have two cows. The government takes one and gives it to your neighbor.
Communism: You have two cows. You give them to the Government, and the Government then gives you some milk.
Fascism: You have two cows. You give them to the Government, and the Government then sells you some milk.
Capitalism: You have two cows. You sell one and buy a bull.
Nazism: You have two cows. The Government takes both and shoots you.
New Dealism: You have two cows. The Government takes both, shoots one, buys milk from the other cow, then pours the milk down the drain

Three Days in Estonia

We have mixed touring with resting during our Estonian stay. Our Euroopa Hotel, right on the water with a view of the ferry terminal, is well located with an ever changing view.

The Baltic Sea ferry network is massive. Several lines serve the city and, at times, there are several ferries in at once. Monday we will board one for Helsinki, Finland.

We have made several trips to Tallinns old town with its shops and restaurants, only ten minutes away. There are actually two old towns, upper for the nobel families and lower for the rest.

We took a bus tour of the city, which was quick since the city is relatively small. Soviet era apartments are overshadowed by new, contemporary buildings, built since freedom was obtained in about 1991. The tour included a stop on the highest point in this flat sea coast city, a "mountain" nearly 1000 feet above sea level.

We were not sure what Sunday entailed but it turned out to be quite interesting. First we visited what we would call a regional park, the Rocca Al Mare. If that sounds Italian it's because the land was owned by an Italian nobleman many years ago. Home, barns and other farm buildings, moved from original locations across the country, are displayed along with medieval crafts people displaying crafts from bygone times. (Think Estonian Williamsburg.)

We then moved to a working dairy farm for lunch where we heard the story of Villo and how he developed his booming dairy business following the departure of the Russians.(More on this in the next posting.)

It may not sound like an exciting visit but it was most interesting to see how quickly this vibrant people has recovered from 50 years of Soviet repression.

Surprising Estonia

My ignorance of Estonia knows no bounds.

* I thought it was south of Sweden. It's east.

* I thought it was east of the other Baltic states, Latvia and Lithuania. It's north.

* I thought it was west of St. Petersburg, Russia. At least I was right about that.

I knew nothing about its history, size, ethnic make up. I still don't know much, despite what I've learned in the past few days.

It has a rich history going back to the 14th century though it only became an independent nation in about 1920. Prior to that it was overrun by the Denmark, Sweden, Germany and Russia, not necessarily in that order and often several times. Their independence from Russia of 1920 was cut short when the Russians moved in again in 1940, only to be pushed out by the Germans in 1941 before returning in 1945 to absorb the Republic of Estonia into the USSR.

Finally, in 1991, a peaceful revolution took place as the USSR was coming apart and Estonia became independent once again. Now they are a part of the EU and NATO.

They are a small nation, about the size of Belgium, with only a small army and an air force with no planes. Their total population is only 1.4 million, with about 425,000 in their largest city, Tallinn. Given their strategic location and small size their best defense from a foreign invasion would be speed bumps at the border. So they enjoy their NATO and EU relationships.

Are they Scandinavian, European or what? Their smart, style and architecture reflect their close ties with Finland and Sweden but even the Estonians are not sure how to describe themselves. They are often referred to as one of the Baltic states

Thus endeth the geography and history lesson.

One thing we do know. They are a very friendly people who have burst to life since coming out from under the Soviet yoke. Tallinn's picturesque old town and vibrant downtown reflect that new look and attitude and they welcome visitors.

We are fortunate to be here.